How to Make the Most of Your Month in Ensenada

How to Make the Most of Your Month in Ensenada, Mexico:

A Sailor’s Guide

Our Experience Checking into Ensenada

At about 4:00 p.m. on Wednesday, November 7, fourteen hours after casting off from the dock in San Diego, we entered Ensenada Harbor.

It was very exciting for us, as we are liveaboard sailors who have been sailing full-time for five months. We had officially entered Mexican waters.

The waterfront was alive with people, food stands, and music. The Mexican flag flapped proudly in the breeze to welcome us.

I wanted to share some tips for living on a boat and checking into Ensenada; the why—and how—we spent an entire month here.

When you check in to any foreign country, whether by land or sea, there is a process to follow, and they all vary slightly or significantly. Mexico turned out to be a breeze, but preparing yourself and your documents is essential. It shows respect and makes life much easier.

The documents you will need to bring are US Coast Guard Registration or country of origin registration, proof of Mexican liability insurance (we used Novamar, but there are others), passports for everyone on board, proof of ownership of any power sports (jet ski, dinghy), and a TIP for the boat?—?a Temporary Import Permit, which is good for ten years.

You will also pay an Immigration fee of about $45.00 USD per person. Additionally, there will be a handling fee from the agents who check you into the country and moorage fees from the marina, which will vary, depending on which marina you choose.

The TIP, which is about $ 50 USD, can be tricky, and we have met many people who have had challenges acquiring it, but the confusion usually arises from two specific areas on the application.

1) There is a space for a ‘maiden name’. This is different in Mexico than it is in the USA. They do not want your maiden/unmarried name here; they want your last name only. This is because Mexican surnames usually include both the father’s and mother’s given last names. If you put your unmarried name in this space (what we from the USA would call a maiden name), your TIP will be issued with the wrong name, which can be very problematic.

2) When you attach documents, they will ask for a ‘Letter of Authorization’. This applies in situations such as if you were a captain transporting the boat but not the owner. However, if you are a cruiser entering Mexico, you will most likely be the owner. Every attachment must have something, so attach a ‘blank’ PDF in this space. Trust me-it works.

Once in Ensenada, there are three marinas available for check-in. Each marina has agents who will review and evaluate your paperwork and take you to the Port Captain. Depending on the marina you choose, the fees will be different.

The first is Marina Coral. It is the most upscale and is attached to a hotel with amenities that you may use, so I am told. However, it is a long trek into Ensenada, leaving you cut off from the main town. You must use Uber or the Mexican version of Didi to visit Ensenada. Both of these ride options are super cheap, but the cost of agents assisting you in entering Mexico at Coral is higher.

Second is the Naval, which is directly on the Malecon. Malecon means seawall in English, and this Malecon is the walkway from the cruise ships to town. It is the least expensive option, but it is busy and loud.

The third and middle-of-the-road option is Cruiseport Village, where the cruise ships docked and we stayed. Pro-Tip: At Cruiseport, the 5-day cost for a marina space is the same as one month, but you must tell them that at the time of entry. Make it one of the first things you say after Hola! otherwise, they will charge a daily rate, and there are no refunds or do-overs. You don’t have to stay for an entire month, but you must tell them upfront, which we did.

Our agents were Oswald and Octavio, and they were fantastic. They were professional and personable and spoke English as well as I did. I had hailed them on Channel 16, and they came down, grabbed our lines, and helped us dock our 41′ Sceptre into a very tight space.

They checked our paperwork, and we were able to go into Ensenada for the evening. The following day, at 9:00 a.m., they took us to the Port Captain, and two hours later, our passports were stamped for 180 days.

Once the paperwork was in order, it was time to discover Ensenada.

Baja is the youngest state in Mexico, with the entire peninsula having a population of less than 4 million, and the city of Ensenada has 500,00 of that population. Travelers often overlook Ensenada; perhaps it doesn’t sound exotic enough, or they read reviews saying there is nothing there. They would be wrong. Baja, in general, and Ensenada specifically, are not to be missed for food, drink, music, and people. Ensenada is a place where you can taste the colors of the culture.

Anthony Bourdain visited Baja in Season 8, Episode 7 of No Reservations, which is available on Amazon Prime. He spent a week here proving that Baja has some of the best street food in the world. Several of those places are in Tijuana, and several are in Ensenada.

So, I pulled out paper and pen and began making a list. I also asked Octavio and Oswald to add to my list, which they did. Here is our Bourdain-inspired Ensenada eating tour and more.

Amazing Food Experiences in Ensenada

On our first night in Ensenada, we went to Hussong’s, the oldest working cantina in Baja, with liquor license #2 still on display. With floors covered in sawdust and walls adorned with memorabilia, we loved dipping our toes into something that felt authentic. It is allegedly the birthplace of the margarita.

I love a good story, and this one begins with Johann Hussong, who was born in Germany and came to the USA in 1888, where he changed his name to John. In 1889, gold was discovered in Ensenada, and John came with the flood of folk in search of riches.

A couple of years after his arrival, he and his friend were on a trading expedition when his companion broke his leg. John brought him to the only watering hole in Ensenada to recuperate. A few days into the recovery, the proprietor of the bar (Meiggs) attacked his wife with an axe. He went to jail, she went to California. Upon his release, he went after his wife and asked John to oversee his bar. Neither Meiggs nor his wife ever returned. A year later, John bought the building, obtained a new liquor license, and opened John Hussong Bar. The story and the vibe are worth the price of the $8.00 Margaritas.

Hussong’s Cantina with people and margaritas

Across the street from Cruiseport Marina is the Rivera del Pacifico building. It was a casino from the early 1900s to the 1950s. Hollywood stars, such as Lucy and Desi Arnaz, would come here to gamble and drink during Prohibition in the USA. It is rumored that Al Capone was also associated with this building.

Today, it’s a cultural center with beautiful gardens, a cool bar, a patio, and a Happy Hour. On Wednesday nights, there are two-for-one Margaritas, and I can attest that they are killer.

Like most cities, Ensenada is made up of neighborhoods (barrios), each with its own character. Zona Centro (Downtown Ensenada) is the heart of the city and is rated one of the best neighborhoods. However, we ventured into several other areas via foot and Uber in search of?—?you guessed it?—?-Street Tacos, of which there is no shortage. Ensenada is famously known as the birthplace of fish tacos.

One common denominator of all the street carts is their offerings of different sauces and salsas, from gringo to Mexican in heat. Don’t be shy; try them all. And if you sit down with a bare taco, don’t be surprised when another customer plops some sauce on it for you; usually, Siracha Mayonnaise?—?which is my new favorite condiment.

Our first stop was also one of Anthony Bourdain’s: El Guerrerense, the busiest street food stand in the world. The owner, Dona Sabina, has been called the queen of ceviche, so we had ceviche and a sea urchin tostada on our menu.

Al pastor tacos are easily the most famous taco in Mexico, and I was on a quest to find the best. Al pastor is marinated pork cooked on a vertical rotisserie or trompo. We caught an Uber to a machine shop, and I asked the driver where his favorite al pastor taco stand was. Thus began our impromptu al pastor taco tour.

Al Pastor or Trompo Tacos being made with man

Bodegas de Santo Tomás is a sleepy square in the daytime and a happening local hangout in the evening. As lovers of all things mezcal, Guajolote de Oro was recommended several times, so we went for a Mezcal tasting and were not disappointed.

Guajolote de Oro is the brainchild of an Oaxacan family. Its cool interior replicates the famous cemetery in Santa María Huatulco, Panteón Santa Cruz. It is a dazzling fusion of culture and tastes.

Guajolote de Oro Interior, Ensenada, Mexico

Our hostess was awesome. She spoke slowly enough for me to understand her and practice my rusty Spanish as we tasted Mezcal.

Mezcal is the sultry, smoky cousin of tequila. There are over 250 types of agave plants in the world, of which only 30 can be used to make mezcal. Much like champagne, which must be produced in certain areas under strict parameters, so is mezcal. It is Mexican Magic in a bottle and comes from a few states: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Zacatecas, San Luís Potosí, Tamaulipas, Durango, and Puebla.

We had the amazing fortune of meeting and eating with Amin, the owner of Hostil Burger. Amin is a super cool dude who reminds me of a So-Cal surfer. He is a proud artisan, and it shows in his burger creations?—?(and the paintings on the walls).

His friend bakes fresh bread for his creations, and he grills up high-quality meat burgers with fresh steamed vegetables on the side. For vegetarians, he also makes portabella or eggplant burgers. Then, he pulls out an array of self-created sauces worthy of bottling. Flavors of garlic, jalapeños, ranch, and chipotle waft through the air.

I pulled out my list and asked him for some recommendations. He gave us a few, and they were spectacular.

One of the things I love about Mexican culture is that a ‘restaurant’ is often somebody’s house. So, we used What’s App and contacted Amin’s recommendations to ensure they were open, available, and able to host us.

Oyster Shucks is a small, unassuming backyard-style establishment, a birdbath overflowing with bottles of beer and the most amazing oysters that will slide down your gullet.

Another not-to-miss spot is Chef Guevara and his Argentinian Bar-B-Q at Parrilla Argentina. It is not the cheapest spot, but it is worth every peso or penny, in our opinion.

Dining out is quite affordable in Ensenada. Street Tacos or local eateries cost about $5-$7 USD per person. More upscale dining, especially wine, will cost more.

Even though the wine region in Ensenada, Valle de Guadalupe, has been dubbed “The Napa Valley of Mexico,” wine is expensive here due to taxes. Impuesto Especial Sobre Producción y Servicios or IEPS; basically a wine tax, is over 50%. Pro Tip: Stick to Tequila or beer while in Mexico.

I love grocery shopping in foreign countries, figuring out the monetary conversion, what things are, and how to cook with unknown ingredients.

Ensenada has many grocery options, some specifically catering to visitors and many smaller markets for the locals. A walk out of the tourist area and a few words of Spanish will net you food for a week for about $20 USD.

PRO-TIP: There is a website called Cruise Timetables that lists all the days and times that cruise ships will be in a particular port. This knowledge is a great way to plan excursions if you wish to avoid the crowds. The flip side is that many shops, restaurants, and pubs are closed and only open for cruise ships. So, dust up your Spanish, call ahead, and prepare for a very authentic experience, which is exactly how we planned our trip to the incredibly cool natural wonder?—?La Bufadora.

We caught an Uber from the marina to La Bufadora, which is a blowhole that shoots water up to 30 meters high. It’s like Mother Nature decided to install a giant water fountain just for kicks. Fun fact: it’s the second highest in the world after Nakalele Point in Hawaii.

Local legend says that a baby whale got stuck in the rocks. He kept spouting water from his blowhole, calling for help. Over time, he turned to stone and became one with the rocks. Every time you see that magnificent water spout, remember that it’s our whale buddy saying, “¡Hola!”

We had the town to ourselves; the tchotchke shops were closed, and there were very few people. After having a close-up and personal experience with La Bufadora, we met a Mexican family and grilled up oysters while sharing traditional Micheladas overlooking the bay.

Our month in Ensenada was wonderful. We met incredible people, made new friends, and ate and drank like royalty. We came away with a newfound love and appreciation of this often-overlooked gem.

One of the blessings of living on a sailboat full-time is that you have the opportunity to stop and eat the tacos!

Ensenada isn’t just a place to visit; it’s a way of life, mixing old traditions with new ones in a special blend that you can only really understand by spending time in this lovely city by the sea.

Thank you for reading!

If you dug this story, check out our month sail down the Baja Peninsula.

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