My First Sailing Experience

700 miles around Vancouver Island

The circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Credit: Writer Jacks

My first sailing experience happened when I was 57 years old. I was a non-swimmer, and afraid of the dark when we decided to become full-time sailors. We purchased a Sceptre 41 Sailboat and spent the next year (and over $100k) upgrading, modernizing, restoring, and reviving her. Now, we were ready to do what sailors call a shakedown cruise. This is not a Grateful Dead reference (I wish it were), but it is the cruise when we take our sailboat to the water to test all our work. There was a lot.

We pulled the mast, replaced the lead-acid batteries with lithium ones, installed an inverter, mounted solar panels, and added dinghy davits for the newly purchased skiff.

We replaced leaky hatches, made curtains, varnished wood, fixed the toilet, had a new mainsail made, installed a state-of-the-art Maxwell Windlass and Ultra Anchor, procured a life raft, serviced the winches, rebuilt the transmission, painted the bottom, and upgraded every electronic system: radar, AIS (Automatic Identification System), chart plotters, and wind instruments.

The shakedown cruise is a test of endurance, speed, mechanics, character, resolve, and attitude. I believed we were ready.

Offshore sailing adventures. Credit: Author’s Collection

A shakedown cruise usually lasts hours or days, but for some reason, we thought sailing 700 miles around Vancouver Island would be a good start for us.

Vancouver Island is approximately 730 nautical miles, not counting side trips. It is the largest island off the west coast of North America and is considered to have some of the most challenging sailing conditions. Every type of weather, wind, current, tide, and terrain is present. On average, it will take about seven weeks to complete.

As new sailors, we adopted the mantra, ‘Schedules sink ships,’ so we allowed ourselves three months.

Vancouver Island. Credit: James Wheeler

Two Distinct Halves:

Vancouver Island has two distinct halves. The East Coast is warmer, calmer, less windy, and protected by islands, inlets, hills, and mountains.

The West Coast is an open ocean with huge waves, fog, and unpredictable weather.

The East Coast is great for summer sailors who want to marina hop, whereas the West Coast is great for those who wish to channel their inner Lt. Dan, ala Forrest Gump.

We arrived in Canada at Port Browning, where we indulged in Canada’s unofficial national food, poutine, a carby, cheesy, brown gravy-covered masterpiece. Sitting at the stool next to me was a salty, old English sailor who told me two things. 1) The World Series is named after The World Newspaper, its early sponsor, followed by the observation that I ‘was American and should have known that,’ and ‘Awe?—?no doubt Missy, you’ll be offshore sailing on the West Side. Get those tethers and gear set. Offshore, you’ll go.’

And this last bit, the ‘offshore you’ll go’ comment, clearly delineates the difference between the East?—?or inner passage and the west coast of Vancouver Island and strikes a chord of fear in me.

I wanted to share some highlights of my circumnavigation of Vancouver Island; the operative term is ‘some,’ as there is a ton to see and experience, and this is only a scratch on the surface.

Princess Louisa Inlet, B.C. Credit: Writer Jacks

Anacortes, Washington

We began in the coastal town of Anacortes, Washington, located on Fidalgo Island. It is the second-largest city in Skagit County, and it is filled with great food, beer, coffee, art, and all things nautical.

For sailors, Cap Sante Marina is a fantastic marina with a stellar location. Across the street is a Safeway Grocery Store that stays open until 1:00 a.m., and it is a 5-minute walk from West Marine. They have clean, bright bathrooms, showers, and a portable pump out for your head. The rates for guest moorage vary and depend on the season. We were there during the ‘off-season,’ so it was $1.16 a foot for our Sceptre 41.

Sailboats in a Marina. Credit: Writer Jacks

Stuart Island

Stuart Island is in the San Juan Islands. It is only accessible by watercraft; well protected and beautiful.

Stuart Island is a wooded space with no public utilities, making it remote. The school is not open because no full-time families with K-8 children live there.

A 6-mile round-trip hike leads from the beach to Turn Point Light Station, which began operating in 1893 and became electric in 1925. The hike is an easy stroll through trees, pastures, and fields with a few small hills, the most difficult being near the light station.

On this hike, you will find treasure chests filled with hats, shirts, and postcards. The items are available on an I.O.U. basis–aka?—?the Honor System, by filling out an envelope and remitting payment.

Boundary Passing Treasure Chest. Credit Writer Jacks

Ezra and Loie Benson and their children own the chests. Their business, The Boundary Pass Traders, is over 25 years old.

Once at Turn Point Light Station, you can see Canada across the ocean.

Pender Island:

The Pender Islands are actually two: North Pender and South Pender Island. Together, they are about 13 square miles and have a population of about 2200, which burgeons during the summer months, adding another 5000 seasonal workers.

There’s no public transport, and picking up hitchhikers is illegal in British Columbia, but hitchhiking is allowed at designated spots called CarStops, which have benches where you wait for passing drivers to offer you a ride. The rules for CarStops are clearly outlined on a sign:

Drivers can choose who to pick up.

You don’t have to take a ride.

Riding is at your own risk.

The ride is free?—?-treat it as a gift.

Princess Louisa Inlet/Chatterbox Falls:

We motored approximately ten hours up Princess Louisa inlet to Chatterbox Falls, as we were in the fjord with no wind. Motoring is the bane of a sailor’s existence, but we knew that we might never get back this way again, and it was motoring we were willing to do.

Motoring in Princess Louisa Inlet. Credit: Writer Jacks

We were warned about Malibu Rapids, which are called gates in British Columbia. They mark the entrance into Princess Louisa Inlet. Due to their shape, they are narrow, and you cannot see other boats, so it is necessary to use Channel 16 to wait and warn other boaters of your entrance and exit.

Since the current can run at 9 knots and create overflow, these rapids must be timed for slack tide. Along with our favorite weather apps, Windy, Navionics, and Predict Wind?—?an essential book to have and use is a Canadian Ports and Passes Tide Table.

Entering Chatterbox Falls, British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Heather Jacks

Chatterbox Falls is located at the head of Princess Louisa Inlet.

Hailed by some as “the most beautiful anchorage in the world,” Chatterbox Falls has been likened to going to church. It’s massive, overwhelming, and stunning in its powerfully simple beauty.

Chatterbox Falls, British Columbia. Credit: Writer Jacks

People come from all over the world to see the over 120-foot-high falls. The sun melts the mountain snowpack, and as many as 60 waterfalls race down the granite walls, which rise over 7,000 feet from the water.

Upstream from Chatterbox Falls is the James Bruce Falls, which is the tallest waterfall in North America.

Warning Sign at Chatterbox Falls, British Columbia. Credit: Heather Jacks

Port McNeil:

This coastal town was the gateway to our next huge adventure: offshore sailing. We spent four days here waiting for a weather window to begin our trip around Cape Scott.

Rounding Cape Scott is considered a notch in the maritime belt. After an inordinate amount of planning and forecast?—?because of the weather, swell, tide, currents, winds, and the Krakens, I imagined lurking in the waters below, we were ready.

I thought a fleet of boats would be preparing to go around, lining up as if in a parade. There were three. O Cassio a Jeanneau 49, Wu Wei a Pacific Seacraft 37, and us.

We rounded the cape with a mix of exhilaration and ease. Until I experienced a type of seasickness that books are written about. I heaved for a solid 12 hours?—?at some point during my misery, my boyfriend had strapped a bucket around my neck. The plastic bag was not cutting it.

Sea Otters in British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Writer Jacks

Kyuquot

At the end of our trip, we both agreed that Kyuquot?—?pronounced ky-YOO-kit, which means the people of Kayukw, was one of our favorite stops along the coast. To say we loved it might be an understatement.

A foggy morning in British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Writer Jacks

Kyuquot is a First Nations community with about 75 permanent residents. It is remote, with no roads and access only by water, so it does not receive many white visitors. The next wide spot in the ocean is about an hour-long boat drive away.

We arrived in dense fog, docked at a government dock, and went out to explore. We came across a sign that read Java The Hutt, 4:30–8:00, 1 km. We followed the boardwalk, which was a combination of boards, slats, weeds, and mud laced under porches, through people’s yards, and across their living quarters. At last, we arrived at a room that neither had coffee nor was Star Wars-themed.

A lodge in Kyuquot, British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Writer Jacks

We met Eric, the owner, a cross between Grizzly Adams and Jerry Garcia. We sat with him and his wife, Nancy, and ate homemade pie.

The next morning, we woke up to a First Nations girl lugging a cart up the steep dock. Chris went and helped her, and I followed. At the top, I introduced ourselves.

“I’m Heather. This is Chris.”

30 seconds of silence passed before she offered a response.

“I’ve met too many Heathers,” and then walked away.

That might seem like an unpromising start, but by the end of our stay, she had introduced us to her mother and offered us smoked salmon.

The village would close for the season two weeks later, but in our three days in Kyuquot, we created tremendous memories.

Hot Springs Cove:

Hot Springs Cove is a reward that sailors yearn for and have earned as they sail the West Coast.

Today, it is a tourist destination, but?—?as a boater, there is no admission fee if you wait until after 6:00 p.m. or before 8:00 a.m.

You walk along a lovely one-mile boardwalk that weaves through a lush forest. When you emerge, there are nice restrooms and a changing area before you begin the 20-minute ascent over slippery rocks to the hot springs below.

Hot Springs Cove, British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Heather Jacks

Ucluelet

At this point of our journey, we had a choice: Ucluelet or Tofino. We opted for Ucluelet because we believed it would be less busy, touristy, and city-ish. It was the right choice for us.

Ucluelet is a First Nation word pronounced you-clue-let, meaning ‘People of the Safe Harbour,’ but locals just call her Ukee (You-key). It is an astoundingly beautiful spot and nestled right along the Wild Pacific Trail.

Ucluelet Harbour is one of the largest ports in British Columbia. When we arrived, we worked our way through a minefield of crab pots and finally dropped the hook in a somewhat crowded anchorage?—? but nothing compared to the marina, which was stuffed to the gills with boats. Every square inch was claimed, and boats were rafted together 4 and 5 deep. (Rafting boats means tying boats together?—?creating a huge flotilla of sorts.)

We spent a few days here and were able to do a little hiking. There is a 1.9-mile loop trail, that goes to the Amphitrite Lighthouse. The hike is punctuated with rocky cliffs, little islands, and outlooks to Barkley Sound, Inspiration Point, and He-Tin-Kis Beach.

Although this hike is not difficult, the only paved part is to the lighthouse. The rest is dirt, and there are no stairs, so you must be able to navigate roots and rocks.

Amphitrite Lighthouse, British Columbia, Canada. Credit: Author’s Collection

Victoria

We made it to Victoria, the capital of British Columbia. An immense sense of accomplishment rolled through our veins. We had done it! And Victoria is spectacular.

It is one of the oldest cities in the Pacific Northwest, established around 1843 and named after the Queen. It is an architectural paradise filled with history, beautiful gardens, the Parliament Building, China Town, and amazing food.

We sailed into the ultra-busy marina, lined on each side with floating houses, water taxis, and tour boats whizzing by in all directions. It felt like mayhem, especially after our trek down the remote coast.

Houses on the marina Victoria, Canada. Credit: Author’s Collection

We hailed the marina on Channel 16, and they met us as we docked for the first time in two months in front of the Empress Hotel.

We made it! The Empress Hotel, Victoria, Canada. Credit: Writer Jacks

As a new sailor, this experience was validating. We had sailed into the dark and into the light, in all kinds of weather and conditions, making new friends and creating amazing memories. It was rough, but it was wonderful. It made me cry and laugh, inspired and terrorized me and made me realize how strong and weak I can be. It was a trek of polar opposites within my own self.

And although I am not a master sailor (yet), and I may never be?—?I do know that I will continue to go forward, learn, and grow. And I will do it now because tomorrow is too late.

And I will do it through the language of the wind: through Sailing.

Stats:

A whale tail or fluke. Credit: Writer Jacks

• Duration: June 7- August 22, 2024
• Distance as sailed/motored: 720 nautical miles (estimate)
• # Nights at anchor: 74
• # Nights on the dock: TWO
• Anchorages with mosquitoes, horseflies, and bugs of prey: All of them.
• Sea otters spotted: Too many to count. These critters were hunted to near extinction for their fur, but in 1969, 89 were reintroduced in Tofino. Today, their numbers have grown to such an extreme, that they have decimated the crab population and are running out of food.
• Whales: 50+. We got to hang out while they were ‘bubble feeding,’ which is a learned behavior. Humpback whales gather into a circle and blow into that circle to confuse the fish; then they take turns feeding. It is estimated that these whales have been around for about 880,000 years. Bubble Feeding was first noted less than a hundred years ago, and scientific study began in earnest in 1980. This new phenomenon has brought them back from the brink of extinction?—?and it is SO cool.
• Dolphins: Orcas are the largest species of dolphin, and meeting them along our trip was one of my favorite things. Every dolphin has a different whistle so that others can recognize it. Did you know that a killer whale is actually a dolphin?

Orcas at Play. Credit: Heather Jacks

Thank you for reading. If you enjoyed that story, check out our trip to Ensenada!