Why Zipolite Should Be On Your Travel List

Why Zipolite Should Be on Your Travel List

My first trip to Mexico was to the southern coastal town of Zipolite in Oaxaca. In this post, I will share our experience and explain why Zipolite should be on your travel list.

The Mexican coast offers white-sand beaches and tranquil environments. From Cancun, Cabo, and Playa del Carmen to the smaller towns of Tulum and Puerto Vallarta, there is a beach for every budget and person.

It’s no secret that I am on the eternal quest to ‘live like a local‘ or as close to it as possible. My first trip to Mexico landed me in Oaxaca, the fifth largest state in Mexico and bigger than the USA. Oaxaca is the home of Mezcal and Mole, and everything seems to be named after the ex-president, Benito Jaurez.

I would come back more than once and learn a little more each time, but here is how my first trip went.

The Name Zipolite

The name “Zipolite” comes from the Nahuatl word “Zapotl,” which means “place of the Zapotec people.” These people were here long before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. Today, you can still see traces of the Zapotec culture in the local traditions and customs of Zipolite.

The town has about 900 residents, and its laid-back vibe is contagious. You can’t help but slow down and embrace the relaxing pace of life.

How to get to Zipolite

Getting to Zipolite is easy. The closest airport is in Huatulco, which receives domestic and international flights.

We booked our trip to HUX with a transfer to Mexico City. Expedia contacted us and advised that the Mexico City transfer had become an overnight stay. Would that be OK? Having never been before, I thought it would be great to explore.

As it turned out, this wasn’t the right decision for us. Mexico City is enormous, with a population of 25 million. I found my day there overwhelming, frantic, and chaotic. I was happy to take a plane to Huatulco the next day.

You can take a taxi or rent a car from the HUX airport, but once in Zipolite, you will not need or use a car. The town’s roads are dirt and have massive potholes. The colectivos, which travel up and down the coast, are easy to access, cheap, and regular, although they stop around 8:00.

You can also rent a scooter for very inexpensive. They are common and practical. We took a taxi from Huatulco for our first trip, which was about $50 USD.  By our next trip, I could use the bus, which was much less expensive–about $5 USD

Pro-Tip: The HUX airport is very small. Exit and cross the street to the Pemex gas station. Navigating the taxi drivers trying to solicit your business will be a gauntlet, but once at the gas station, you can grab a cab from there.

Taking that 300-yard walk will save 400-500 pesos for the same ride, which will buy you many beers on the beach.

Or, if you have a little Spanish in your arsenal, you can take the bus to Pochutle and then a colectivo. The trip will be longer, but it will cost about 100 pesos.

You can also fly into Oaxaca City and then take a bus or hire a car to reach Zipolite.

This will take a few hours, but the scenery makes it worthwhile.

If you rented a car, I don’t know what you would do with it once you were there. If you opt for a bus, knowing the language is a necessity.

Where We Stayed in Zipolite

Zipo is a beach paradise on the southern coast of Oaxaca that remains somewhat undiscovered by tourists.

There are many options for accommodation in Zipolite, from hotels to exclusive spas and AirBnB’s. The amenities and the prices vary greatly.

I like simplicity and rustic vibes, so we ultimately booked a two-week stay at Ballelita Cabanas, which worked out great.

We were right on the beach, with a view of the ocean and sunsets that brought tears to our eyes. The place has a simple bar, hammocks swaying in the breeze under an awning, and great guys who work there. It is located next to a very posh resort, but for our peso, Ballelita was awesome.

One night, there was a storm, which we enjoyed from the serenity and comfort of the outside thatched covering. Next door, they had to go inside because their covering couldn’t handle the rain.

The bathroom only has cold water, which sometimes heats up in the sun, as is typical in beach communities. 

A word about amenities: air conditioning that Westerners are accustomed to is rare. It will probably be a fan whirring in a corner or from the ceiling if advertised. In a few cases, some places will provide small a/c units in their rooms, but be forewarned–they probably won’t work. 

Pro Tip:

Cash is King. This cannot be overstated. Bring pesos. Zipolite has three ATMs, which will probably be broken, and few establishments take credit cards.

It is like stepping back to the seventies; these things haven’t made it into everyday culture–and I hope they don’t. The nearest bank is in Potchutla, which is not only its form of fresh hell but also the longest 16 km you can imagine. You can get there by cab or colectivo. 

Best option: Bring pesos!

Where we ate and drank in Zipolite

 By nature of politics, economy, money, or whatever—one day, you will have a fantastic burger on the beach–the next day, that burger place is gone.

Fresh seafood is what they serve in Zipolite:  ceviche, grilled fish, and shrimp tacos. Don’t miss Tequila’s nasty little cousin, Mezcal. It is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from the agave plant. Zipolite is known for its excellent mezcal, and you’ll find plenty of bars where you can enjoy a refreshing cocktail or shot–cabellito–of this Mezcal.

We ate out and ate a lot. One of the cool things about the beach communities in Oaxaca is that you amble down an alley, and people open their kitchen windows and make you cocktails. There is no such thing as a Health Department here. We became regulars at the kitchen window of Senor Luhan and his wife Angelica–for a nightly cocktail. In one posada, I was asked if I wanted mango in my water–which I assumed would be a piece of mango; what it turned out to be was a licuado—mango blended like a smoothie into the water. It was amazing.

Don’t miss Restaurante Alessandro’s, an excellent Italian space with a fabulous beach vibe and an incredible wine list. Wine isn’t easy to find in the beach communities. Beer? No problem. Wine? Slight problem—until I discovered Alessandro’s. Amazing food, great camaraderie, new friends, and wine.

Some Not To Miss Foods in Zipolite–(Oaxaca).

Mole:

Mole is the most prized Oaxacan dish around and a must-try. What is it? It comes from the Nahuatl (Aztec) word ‘m?lli,’ meaning ‘sauce,’ but it is so much more. It is a food, a celebration, and a tradition that combines influences from indigenous Mexico, the Middle East, and Europe and includes chili, chocolate, olives, cinnamon, and raisins. 

The ingredients are many and varied, but the presentation and technique remain the same. The chosen ingredients are toasted separately, ground into a paste, fried, and added to chicken stock–then served with fish, rice, tortillas–you name it—it’s called a mole.

Tlayudas

We were told that we had to try the traditional Oaxacan Tlayuda, so we did. It is about the size of a pizza made like a tostada. It is a large, thin, fried tortilla covered in stuff: meat, cabbage, beans, avocado, salsa, cheese…you get the idea. I didn’t love it, but it is a traditional food, so we tried it.

Tamales

The tamales from Oaxaca are the bomb. Why? Instead of corn husks, they are made with banana or plantain leaves. They are square and can be huge. They are stuffed with all sorts of tamale-type items—and, of course, mole.

Pro Tip: Although not traditional Spain, there is still an unwritten siesta time, which means you will not be able to get food or brew during the hours of about 1:00 or 2:00 ish until about 5:00 ish. Trust me, the ‘ish‘ is a real thing.

Safety tips for visiting Zipolite–Or Anywhere for That Matter

While Zipolite is generally a safe destination, taking precautions when traveling is always important. Here are a few safety tips to keep in mind:

1. Zipolite is not a swimmer’s beach. It is dangerous. Dozens of tourists get caught in the rip tide every year and die. There are no warning signs and nothing to suggest how deadly the current is, but if you ask around, the locals will say, ‘Oh, yes, someone died last week.’
2. Wear sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. Six months in Alaska plus two days in Mexico = a Burnt Kiwi!
3. Always be wary when traveling; don’t wear flashy items or fancy watches that draw unnecessary attention to yourself.
4. Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water, especially during the hot summer months.
5. Respect the local culture and customs, and ALWAYS ask permission before taking photos of people, their art, their homes, etc.…